Dreams & Ambitions Discovered: Myanmar 2/6: Mandalay

From Yangon I took an overnight bus to Mandalay. I didn't have a guide book but everybody else did. The Lonely Planet listed the ride at 12-15 hours, it only took 9 hours. A theme that would continue throughout the trip. Maybe a sign of improved infrastructure over the past couple years since publication

Myanmar: Mandalay

With a population of 1 million Mandalay is the 2nd largest city in Myanmar sitting on the East bank of the Irrawaddy River. In the middle of the city is Mandalay Palace surrounded by a moat. These are the walls

They charge $10 for a pass to see 4 sites in the city but I didn't care to see them enough to give the government my money so I did not enter the grounds

Mandalay Hill in the distance

uthodaw Paya is site of the world's largest book, located at the foot of Mandalay Hill. Built by King Mingdon in the 1800s, 729 white stupas within the complex contain the complete text of the Tripitaka, Theravada Buddhism's most sacred text.

Taken from 1/2 way up Mandalay Hill. Same temple below as the picture above

Next several pictures are of Mandalay Hill.

Everywhere I went, the generals had apparently also been

To celebrate the 48th independence of Aung San Suu Kyi held an NLD ceremony in the garden in front of her home. A "key member" of her staff was interrogated on what they had planned for the occassion but the appearance of a comedy troupe from Mandalay by the name of a-nyeint was not mentioned. Here is how Suu describes the event in "Letters from Burma".

"...The event went on for 6 hours because tghe audience of nearly 2,000 wanted the last item, the a-nyeint to continue for as long as possible.

It started in the traditional way with two comedians coming forward to introduce the performance. But as soon as the senior of the two, U Pa Pa Lay, started to speak it became obvious, to the surprise and untold delight of the audience, that this was going to be an act such as had not been witnessed in Burma for several decades. The comedians were determined to excercise to the full their traditional right to apply their comedic and critical powers to a commentary on topical interest, many of political nature.

U Pa Pa Lay began by saying that this was an occasion when he would be acting and speaking according to his own wishes and that he was aware such audacity would very likely land him in prison. He explained that he had already served a year in prison for making a joke that referred to the overwhelming suppport for the NLD throughout the whole country. The thunderous applause that greeted U Pa Pa Lay's introductory remarks was a fitting prelude to a performance that scintillated with witty skits, brilliant jokes, sprightly dances and lively music. The audience revelled in their artistic skill of the whole performance and were filled with deep admiration for the courage of the company, in particular U Pa Pa Lay and his fellow comedian U Lu Zaw who so bravely gave voice to what the people had been wishing-but not daring- to say for many a year.

..."The company arrived back in Mandalay on the 7th (3 days later) and later that day were taken away by authorities. We are now waiting for the next act in the drama of this most courageous troupe. Come what may, we shall stand by them" Aung San Suu Kyi

During the 2007 protests U Par Par Lay was arrested again

They are now under house arrest and only allowed to perform for foreigners. I had met 4 people throughout the day and we all went. We were the only people there.

To foreigners they are known as the moustache brothers. Lu Maw is the only one who speaks English so runs the show. We are told not to steal, the government doesn't like competition. That is the biggest jab he took all night. His wife was on the cover of the 1994 Lonely Planet Italy edition!

When I created my couchsurfing profile a few years back I wrote "Anybody who stands up for what they believe regardless of the consequences is a hero in my eyes"

Next morning along with 3 other people that accompanied me to the show we rented a pick up to take us around for the day.
Entrance to the gold leaf temple or Maha Myat Muni Paya, the 2nd holiest site in Myanmar