Monday, May 9, 2011

Laos

Crossed into Laos from Chiang Kong, Thailand. View across the border into Laos (Mekong river). It got off to a rocky start when I went to the ATM only to learn that I had apparently lost my debit card. I had already spent all but 14 of my emergency US dollars, mostly on visas.  Luckily I was still with Joyce who I did the Mae Hong Son loop with and she saved the day. I would later contact my Mom and have her Western Union me some money.



Joyce and I caught a ride with a Thai couple headed to China from Bangkok and hitchhiked to Luang Namtha. 

This may not be the greatest example but the roads in Laos are the worst I had experienced to date. Travel time is extremely slow, in part due to the rugged mountain driving but the roads are downright awful. (Since this I have been to Myanmar where the roads are even worse!)

Somebody may correct me if I am wrong but I believe they are making brooms. It is about all I have seen the villagers do (more later)

Really Luang Namtha was a total waste of time for me. I wanted to go trekking but it didn't work out for a couple reasons and then I was going to visit a village near the China border but heard some news from home that made me not care to do anything that day. Think I did make some money playing cards there though. Decided to hitch hike to the next city and caught our first ride with this truck

Helped him unload

I read that 80 percent of the Lao people live in villages

Laos is one of China's new best friends. They are currently ravaging the country for their resources. Every big rig seems to be either going to or from China. Going South you can watch the timber leave the country, pretty amazing

After three rides we made it to Luang Prabang. The third one was amazing, we went in the bed of a pick up as the sun went down. Then it was one of the top 10 nights for star gazing I have ever had. In the undeveloped North of Lao the views of the sky are incredible. We also stopped for dinner in a village and most the food they were serving did not appeal to me but I got some very fatty pork on a stick which I suspect I was over charged for. I pointed out to Joyce some insect larvae on the grill, then as we ate the driver threw 3 of them on my plate (was with 2 Lao/2 Chinese). They told me they were bamboo seeds but I was pretty sure they were larvae. I took a bite of one and it tasted like nothing so ate all 3.

This temple in Luang Prabang came highly recommended but must admit I was not overly impressed. The ones in Chiang Mai were much nicer. Had originally set aside more to post but only going to share a couple



Luang Prabang feels like a European city and was priced to match. Here is the view as the sun sets on the Mekong

Luang Prabang is where the Mekong meets the Nam Khan, this is the Nam Khan View from a temple on the hill (only valid reason to visit the temple is for the views). 

View from inside the temple anyway

Picture of a picture of somebody taking a picture of the sunset from same hill/temple in previous 2 pictures. I think it is an ok picture

Luang Prabang is considered to be one of the most beautiful cities in SE Asia. Being in the center of Laos it isn't on every travelers itinerary yet but the tourism has definitely hit and is growing. Either way, place is loaded with temples

The two most common day trips are to a waterfall and to a cave. I only went to the Kuang Se waterfall and it was well worth it. Great place to spend the day and enjoy some bbq, beer, and a swim

Several terraces lead up to the main fall



Don't have a very good view of the falls but this is the view from the ledge on the top of the waterfall (random people)


stopped in a touristy village on the way back, still dirt poor with too many children running around half naked but touristy nonetheless

Then it was off hitch hiking to Vang Vieng, a place I had been looking forward to in some ways for some time. We thought we struck gold when the first big rig picked us up and offered a ride the whole way. 30 seconds later he pulled into a gas station where he went to the bathroom, smoked a cigarette and then sat for about half an hour. Back on the road, stopped 10 minutes later so he could buy cigarettes. Then he stopped in the next small town for I'm not sure what reason. Normal Laos, slowest place ever. After almost 2 hours we had gotten basically nowhere so left his truck and walked to the end of the town to catch a new ride . 

Caught a ride for a short distance in this truck

They stopped in a small village so we once again were walking to the end to catch a new ride. Was early afternoon by this point and there was a group of Lao people drinking so we stopped to chat. They offered us some LaoLao (strong rice wine) and then a place to stay for the night. Joyce didn't want to stay so we parted ways

Most of the people had left by this point. There were a couple card games going on for 1/8 of a dollar each. Head of the village and the village police (my favorites, NOT) were also in attendance. Was a celebration for a birth


Here is the house I stayed in for the night. It is one room with no running water or toilet but there is electricity (one light). The guy who lives here was born elsewhere but married a women from this village, they have 2 sons (11 and 9). He use to teach English in this village but said nobody has the money to pay him anymore. His children are not currently in school because the school in the village is currently closed


He originally tried to have me stay with the head of the village. I am quite confident the reason for this is that he was embarrassed how poor he is, he apologized for it several times


When I woke up they served me breakfast, mice! Have posted before that I would never eat a rodent. If I was ever going to this would be the time. Felt really bad that I could not accept but there was just no way I could eat it. Funny part is then he showed me some insect larvae and told me they live inside the bamboo, made the previous person telling me it is bamboo seed make more sense.

Hanging on the ceiling, where I failed to notice them the night before (being eaten in pic above)


I really have no idea how the people in the villages of Lao get by. They have nothing. It is crazy because if I had to make a bet on wether this village will get wifi or running water first, I would bet on wifi

when returning from the tour of the village after the breakfast I didn't eat they were making brooms. It's the only thing I have seen them make here. That, and people carrying bamboo down the roads to build houses and/or eat (including the larvae inside!)

After the village I arrived in Van Vieng, Laos. A place I had been looking forward to for some time. If you want to party, along with a couple Thai islands this is the place to be. City is complete with "happy menus" offering weed, mushrooms and opium.

It is also downright beautiful. Tourism has a way of settling in the best of locations



Rented a scooter with a Canadian couple to visit some caves

"blue lagoon"

Pictures of caves never come out good but this cave was quite impressive, complete with a small shrine.



The Nam Song River flows through Van Vieng


Here is the main attraction that brings all the drunk Australians, tubing! You rent a tube in the city, they drive you a few km up the river and you tube back stopping at bars along the way. People get too drunk and die every year but this is the dry season and the river is going quite slow. 

This is the 1st bar. I showed up a little late today (went to the cave in the morning). Was my 2nd time tubing and I learned you don't need a tube at all, waste of money. Odds are you are only going to make it to the 2nd or 3rd bar. At this point the first bar is beginning to die out and the 2nd one is turning into the place to be (Maybe in the wet season the river is more fun and worth getting a tube)

every bar has their own zip lines, slides and platform for diving (all free). everybody is absolutely hammered or well on their way but this is the 3rd world and there are no regulations and people do crack their heads open on rocks from time to time. 



This is what the bars further down river look like and why the tube is a waste of money imo (at least in dry season)

In the evening the city becomes full of drunks. Place can be out of control. Also most the bars air Family Guy all day, was disappointed by no South Park (did see one place showing Simpsons and for some reason Friends is also very popular in the bars).

From Van Vieng I went to Vientiane, the capital, which was uneventful. Then I headed to Thailand to relax and play poker for a little bit. That went well, highlighted by taking 1st out of 1186 players in  the 5r on FTP for close to $5,000. From there I headed to Myanmar for 27 days

3 comments:

  1. Ya but how much did you lose? Simpsons quit being funny in 97. I am def going to have to go there.

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  2. HA, I made more than 5k but should have made more, game selection for the loss. I also lost internet with 18 players left in the $26 18k, when I returned I had blinded out and finished 12th or 13th, I forget. Was turbo night so the fields were bigger than usual, first was like 7k :(. Was also a top 3 stack in the same 5r when I lost connection, but came back with still a top 20 stack and took a dirty runner runner beat for chip lead with like 60 left, maybe 90 w/e. I better crush Macau!!!

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  3. These pictures just remind me of my past travels in Laos. I love Luang Prabang town, worth coming back to.

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