Mae Hong Son Loop: 7 Day Road Trip in Northern Thailand

While playing poker in Chiang Mai I saw a post in the CS group from Joyce a friendly Dutch asking if anybody was interested in doing the Mae Hong Son Loop. I didn't know what it was but I hadn't done a whole lot other than play poker in the previous 15 days since India so it sounded like an excellent idea so I joined her. We each rented a scooter and did it in 7 days, stopping for 3 nights in Pai and 2 in Mae Hong Son along the way. Best part is she did all the planning (I think she expected more of me in that department). It got off to a shaky start as Joyce crashed her scooter the first day (wasn't part of the plan). I was behind her and thought the worst when I saw her face plant after hitting the ground but she only hit her helmet and was ok. Though the rest of the way she drove very slow! Safety First :)

The first day we rode to Pai. It is a very windy road proven by the shirts they sell advertising the 762 curves you maneuver to get there from Chiang Mai. The town was definitely touristy but super chill and the surrounding areas beautiful. It is known for having a "hippie vibe". We met up with Luca and Aga, an Italian/Polish couple I originally met couchsurfing in Kuala Lumpur and then stayed in the same house again in Bangkok, and hung out in Chiang Mai with. We stayed in the same guest house as them in Pai and they rented a scooter our first full day there, the 4 of us rode around the area.

We tried to go to a hot spring but they wanted $6 to enter. That trend continued throughout the trip for waterfalls and caves. After being in Nepal I didn't care to pay to see a waterfall. Joyce was recently in Tibet so she didn't mind missing them either. Spent my b-day drinking Thai whiskey in Pai then it was back on the road

Took a side road for a little while to ride through a village and stop for lunch

Deep in the mountains and isolated from the world for much of history the Mae Hong Son province is the least populated region in all of Thailand

Getting close to Mae Hong Son

Went to a "long neck" village near Mae Hong Son. I had no idea what to expect on this road trip and wasn't aware of their existence. They are Burmese refugees, this is very very near the Burma border. 

on way to village 

I read about the "long neck village" the day before and must admit I never considered not going. The village charges about $8 to enter. It is very controversial. What I will do is write word for word the paper they give you when you enter and then links to BBC news articles which call the place a "Human Zoo".

"The Paduang are refugees Who have been setting in Thailand for over 20 years due to political situations in their country, Burma. Since they are refugees they can't work legally in this country.

If you are interested in seeing them, please give entrance fee of 250 Baht per person at the Tourist Service Center. This fee supports their daily needs such as food , medical treatment, children's education, development in their village, and other extra needs.

Originally they were farmers in Burma. They had their own houses, villages, and farms and stayed this way peacefully. However, due to the military government power in this year 1988 to this day, people in the ethnic areas were tortured, suffered from violations of human right, forced labor, forced relocations; porters to carry the troop' loads when they fought against ethnic guerillas. In 1948 Burma gained it's independence from England-the civil war still exists.

If you suspect to give or support with the entrance fee to them, you can ask anywhere to the tourist services

Thanks a lot for your kind payment

MAY YOU HAVE A GOOD TRIP

(all the spelling, grammar and < etc is same as on paper)

Links to BBC news stories
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/7215182.stm
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/47754.stm

The experience was very awkward. We paid the entrance on the main road of a small village and then were led down a narrow hallway with shops on both sides. Once you pass the shops you are on the river, cross a small bridge and are in the long neck village

There isn't much to the village, just a very touristy lane with shops on both sides. A couple small roads with some houses, place is tiny

She wasn't wearing the coils

 felt uncomfortable taking pictures of the women. This is the only girl I took a picture of since I bought something from her, the greatest post card ever, drink human milk!!!. There were better photo opportunities but if anybody is interested I am sure you can google image it.

I dunno, it was really weird. Human Zoo didn't feel too far from the experience though I don't know the actual details on their freedom and rights etc.

Then it was back to Mae Hong Son which is a town I enjoyed greatly. Spent 2 nights there and easily could have stayed a few more

Temple on the hill over looking the city. Wat Phra That Doi Kong Mu

There are two temples on the lake. Not sure which this is or even where one begins and the other ends. Same complex to my ignorant eyes. They are Wat Jong Kam and Wat Jong Klang. 

Back on the road

tomatoes

rice fields in the distance

Loved this petrol station

market

Many temples along the way, didn't stop at most. No idea the name of this one

Nest stop: LAOS. I had originally came up with the plan of going to Burma because it made the most sense organization wise. However, after the road trip I only had 2 days left on my visa which was not enough time to get to Bangkok and get a visa so Laos it was.