Many people found the 5500 foot descent to Muktinah more challenging than the climb up, it is definitely harder on the knees. It is less exhausting so I was happy to be able to walk for more than a couple minutes without having to stop to catch my breath...
This side of the pass is much steeper, one of the reasons the majority of trekkers do the trail in the same direction I did. Can also be dangerous to increase in altitude so quickly. These donkeys are definitely putting in work
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| Love my Osprey Atmos 50 |
Muktinath was the only location of the trek with a good bar and party atmosphere. View of Dhaulagiri from the balcony was also amazing
Day 11: Dhaulagiri (left) viewed from temple complex in Muktinath
Muktinath is a pilgrimage site for both Tibetan Buddhist and Hindus
Kagbeni (2,800 meters), almost half way down to sea level from the pass in 2 days
Day 12: View from Kagbeni
walking across a dry lake bed
It is said that the new roads are placing the Annapurna Circuits reputation as one of the world's greatest treks into jeopardy. Many people take a bus or jeep from Jomson, either skipping 2 days of walking or all the way back to Pokhara ending the trek here. Ending here is a major mistake, as is skipping 2 days of walking. The views are still fantastic and there are some beautiful alternative paths to the road much of the time. Traffic is minimal, several jeeps/buses an hour. I was in the minority that walked the entire trek from start to finish
watching a plane take off at the airport in Jomson during lunch
I don't think I'd fly in Nepal, was scared just watching. The plane does not clear the mountains, instead it cuts left through the canyon as it gains elevation
Slept in Martha, great Tibetan village
Day 13:
Marijuana grows wild everywhere between roughly 2-3 thousand meters on both sides of the pass. May grow lower but don't recall seeing it much if at all. This plant is about 8-10 feet tall
Stopping for lunch
Stayed in Kalopani for the night. This is the best location on the trek to see Annapurna I. Shame for those in the jeeps and buses! Annapurna I on the left is the 10th highest peak in the world (8,091 m /26,545 ft)
Day 14: Reading Upton Sinclair's The Jungle didn't make me a vegetarian nor do sights like. Makes me hungry!
it is a good thing we took a bus to avoid walking on the road, not! Somewhere near here (maybe here exactly?) we passed Kali Gandaki Gorge, arguably the deepest gorge in the world; the area that lays between Annapurna I and Dhaulagiri. It wasn't as impressive as one may suspect, I was oblivious when I walked past it and not informed until later, though prior to the trek I did know I would be passing the deepest gorge in the world at some point. Here is what Wikipedia says, "The gorge separates major peaks Dhaulagiri (8,167 m/26,795 ft) to the west and Annapurna (8,091 m/26,545 ft) to the east. If one measures the depth of a canyon by the difference between the river height and the heights of the highest peaks on either side, this gorge is the world's deepest. The portion of the river directly between Dhaulagiri and Annapurna I (7 km downstream from Tukuche) is at an elevation of 2520 metres, 5571 metres lower than Annapurna ".
This waterfall does happen to be on the road
Solar heating is popular throughout the trek, especially for hot showers
I forget the proper name but this is used to grind corn, powered by the river/water
From here many of the people return from the Jeeps and buses they took from Jomson. The following day is a massive 5,700 foot hike (can be done in 2 days). Then we wake before sunrise to climb another 1,000 feet to the top of Poon Hill which offers panorama views of the Dhaulagiri and Annapurna ranges. It is crowded since Poon Hill can be done in a popular 3-5 day trek from Pokhara, but arguably the best views of the trip.
DAY 15: Cross the river before the 5,700 foot ascent
There were many lively villages on the way
view during lunch
Dhaulagiri. 7th highest peak in the world
Day 16: We rose early and walked to the top of Poon Hill for the sunrise. The views are unimaginable but the crowds a detraction. From Poon hill there is a panorama view of both the Dhaulagiri and Annapurna mountain ranges
Big Dipper over Annapurna South: 7,219 meters (from Poon Hill)
Dhaulagiri from Poon Hill
This picture is from google image. This is the panorama view from Poon Hill
Machhapuchhre AKA Fishtail (6,997 meters) on the right (no longer on Poon Hill)
Fishtail again, the spelling is atrocious everywhere. Best part is most places divide Wel Come into two words
The sign did not lie about the views. Annapurna South on the left and Fishtail on the right
A cold beer + this view made for one of the best sunsets ever
Day 17: The descent to Nayapul, followed by a 2 hour bus ride to Pokhara...
Another beautiful day on the Annapurna Circuit
Last picture of the trip :(
It is said that it isn't where you go but the journey and the people you meet along the way. I hopped on the bus to Besishar alone but was never by myself on the trek. One of the best aspects of the trip is all the people you meet along the way. I did most of the first half of the trek with a group of 7 Brazilians, a Canadian, 2 Dutch, and 2 French plus many other people we would see over and over again. 2nd half of the trek I did with 2 American cousins and 2 Israeli girls. This blog wouldn't be complete without their inclusion as they all contributed to make it a trip of a lifetime
Esme
Reins. Hope I spelled that right!
Some Brazilians, French and Dutch
Joao
Leonardo
Paulo and Leo on our way to getting drunk in Muktinah
Nate
Great post like this must be highly recommended.
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